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Asia, Nepal, Makalu Attempt

Makalu Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Gino Baccanelli, Battistino Bonali, Giuseppe Buila, Giancarlo Domenighini, Giovanni Ducoli, Dr. Sandro Ghitti, Guiglielmo Guzza, Franco Solina and me as leader. We arrived at Base Camp at 5280 meters on April 7. Using the nomal route, we established Camps I, II and III at 6100, 6800 and 7400 meters on April 12, 20 and 24. After a rest at Base Camp, Ducoli, Bonali, Guzza and Sherpa Gyalzen Lhakpa left on a summit attempt. They planned to bivouac at 7800 meters, but on May 1, encouraged by good weather, they set out for the top. When they reached 8150 meters, the four decided to descend to Camp III. On May 2, returning to the original plan, they set up a tent at 7800 meters. Lhapka descended again to Camp III and to Base Camp. On May 3, the other three reached 8300 meters, only a little more than 150 meters from the summit, when the weather turned bad. At eleven A.M., in a white-out they turned back. Ducoli stopped to spend the night at Camp IV, but the next day gave up the idea of a solo summit try.

Savio Giacomelli, Club Alpino Italiano