American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Yalungkang

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Yalungkang. Our Basque expedition entirely from Azpeitia was composed of Pako Uriarte, José Urbieta, Benantxio Irureta, Pello Aranburu, Francisco Javier Maiz, Iosu Arrieta, Rosa María Segués and me as leader. We climbed Yalung Kang by the normal route from the southwest. We established Base Camp and Camps I, II, III and IV at 5400, 6100, 6800, 7200 and 7800 meters on September 14, 23, 26, October 2 and 4. After several summit attempts thwarted by bad weather, five climbers left Base Camp on October 8, followed the next day by two more. On October 11, Irureta and I set out for the summit from Camp IV, but I had to return for a short bit to warm my hands before leaving again with Arrieta and Sherpas Ang Furi and Purba Kitar. At 8200 meters a stone fell from above on my head, knocking me semiconscious. The attention of Arrieta and the Sherpas obviously had to be directed to getting me down. Meanwhile, Irureta continued on strongly and reached the summit at one P.M. We were all back in Base Camp on October 12.

Jesús Mari Bereciartúa, Lagun Onak de Azpeitia, Spain

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