American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Bhutan, Kankar Pünzum Attempt, 1986

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Kankar Pünzum Attempt, 1986. (The report on this expedition has only just now become available. —Editor.) A team of five Britons, an American and a New Zealander was led by Steve Berry. In October of 1986 they took ten days to reach Base Camp at 17,000 feet in continuous rain and sleet. They crossed the Mangde Chu Glacier moraines to Advance Base at the foot of the mountain. Camp I at 20,500 feet was on a ridge at the head of a gully, a single tent at a precarious angle. Wind confined climbers there for two days before they descended to Advance Base. After a break in the weather, they returned to Camp I and set up Camp II at 21,500 feet. After reaching 22,500 feet, they were repulsed by strong winds. Food was running out as yaks could not reach Base Camp in deep snow. At the request of the Bhutanese government, Indian Army helicopters dropped food. Finally the members were airlifted to Paro.

Kamal K. Guha, Editor, Himavanta, India

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