American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentine-Chilean Patagonia, Torres de Paine, South Tower, Nearly Complete Ascent of West Face, 1987

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 1989

Torres de Paine, South Tower, Nearly Complete Ascent of West Face, 1987. We were Antonio Prestini, Lornza Bergamaschi, Enzo Parazzoli, Luciano Maiocchi, Elio Guastalli, Caterina Delle Mese and I as leader. We got to the “Italian Base Camp” on December 10, 1987. With quite good weather, Prestini and I repeated the 1958 Bich-Pession-Carrel-Pelissier route on the North Tower on December 18. Our real objective was a new route on the west face of the South Tower, on the gray-colored northwest buttress of the bottom part. Prestini and I climbed the buttress to its top where our route joined the southwest ridge, which had been climbed a month before by climbers from Toblino. We did not continue on to the summit because of a lack of time and worsening weather. In five days of climbing, from December 22 to 27, 1987, we climbed 700 vertical meters (UIAA VI + , A2).

Gianni Caronti, Club Alpino Italiano

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