American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentine-Chilean Patagonia, North Tower of Paine Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

North Tower of Paine Attempt. In December, 1987, Matjaž Ravhekar, Ivan Rejc and I entered the Paine area, hoping to climb the northwest buttress of the North Tower. We got to Punta Arenas on December 10 and reached Base Camp on the 18th. The weather was fine only on the first day of our climbing. In spite of bad weather, we managed to climb the most difficult 350 meters of the lower wall (VI + , A3 or A4). The rock was bad there. We tried three times to climb the easier upper wall in alpine-style. Each time the weather turned us back. On the attempt on January 14, we bivouacked on the wall in a very heavy snowstorm. The high point was 500 meters up the face, still 200 meters from the top. The last 100 meters appear to be quite easy. Since we could not postpone our flight home, we left Base Camp on January 18.

Edo Kozorog, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia

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