American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentine-Chilean Patagonia, Aguja Saint Exupéry, West Face, and Fitz Roy, 1987

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 1989

Aguja Saint Exupéry, West Face, and Fitz Roy, 1987. After the ascent of Cerro Torre from October 27 to 31, 1987 by Rosanna Manfrini and me, in which she made the first female ascent of the very difficult peak (AAJ, 1988, page 174), good weather returned on November 3. This let us carry out our second objective, the west face of the Aguja Saint Exupéry, an unclimbed 1000- meter-high granite wall. We added Sergio Valentini, a friend we found in the region. On November 4, 1987, we attacked the central pillar of the immense face, which we managed to climb entirely free. We reached the summit on the second day by this new route and thus completed the fifth ascent of the tower. We began the descent immediately in the evening of the 5th to avoid being caught in a threatening storm. The ascent rose 960 meters and was of 5.9 to 5.11 difficulty. From November 20 to 22, Rosanna, Maurizio Vanzo and I climbed the 1984 Argentine route on Fitz Roy in doubtful weather.

Maurizio Giordani, Club Alpino Italiano

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