American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentina, Aconcagua Southwest Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Aconcagua Southwest Ridge. Milan Romih and I climbed in Argentina around the beginning of 1988. On December 31, 1987, I made a new route on the south face of Vallecitos (5340 meters, 17,520 feet), while Romih climbed the normal route. This lies in the Cordon del Plata. After an attempt on the south face of Aconcagua on January 8 and 9, where we turned back because of heat and bad rock, we started up the southwest ridge of Aconcagua on January 10. We found difficult climbing on the pyramid above the col (UIAA VII, 90° ice). Romih was injured and had to descend and so I went on to the west summit alone on January 12. The next day, I descended the French route on the south face. From January 31 to February 2, we worked on a new route to the right of the French route on the south face of Aconcagua. Because of the extraordinary objective danger and bad weather, we did not complete the route after ascending 1700 meters but descended the French route.

Slavko Sveticic, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia

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