American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru?Cordillera Blanca, Taulliraju and Other Peaks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Taulliraju and Other Peaks. Our High-Mountain Military Group expedition was made up of Captain Jean-Pierre Charles, Dr. Emmanuel Cauchy, Adjutants Lionel Mailly and Hervé Farges, Sergeants Yves Tedeschi, Bruno Prom, Jean-Marc Gryska and Dominique Gleizes and me as leader. After an ascent of Rasac in the Cordillera Huayhuash on May 25, on June 13 we set up Base Camp at the Llanganuco Lakes. We made the following climbs: Pisco on June 14, Chopi-calqui on June 16 and 17, Huascarán Norte by the Barrard route on June 15 to 17, Huascarán Norte by the north face on June 20 and 21 and Yanapaktsa on June 26. From June 20 to 22 a team climbed Huascarán Sur to allow me to jump by parachute onto the summit. I took off from Anta in a Cessna, jumped at 7200 meters and landed on the summit at eleven A.M. on June 21 despite a strong wind and cold temperatures. I then descended to Yungay by paraglider. On July 3 and 5, two teams climbed the southwest face of Alpamayo. On July 3 and 4 Prom, Gryska and Gleizes climbed a new route on the southwest face of Taulliraju, an obvious couloir on the great buttress on the right of the face. The first two pitches were of 80° to 85° to gain the 70° couloir with steeper steps. The exit from the buttress was on snow-covered rock. From the summit they descended the normal route.

Alain Estève, Capitaine, Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne

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