American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Asgard, Southern Edge, Baffin Island

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Asgard, Southern Edge, Baffin Island. Fabio Leoni, Leonardi Luca, Fabrizio Defrancesco and I left Pangnirtung by motorsied for the Weasel Valley, which may be compared to the Yosemite but which has a different climate. We made Base Camp at Summit Lake. The frigid temperatures in the first days of May brought us very fine weather. Right away, we carried supplies to the bottom of the west face of Asgard, our objective. After a few days, the weather changed radically. After two weeks of miserable conditions, we decided to give up our climb of the face. With great difficulty, we retrieved the material from the face. With an improvement in the weather, we decided to try a new route on the southern edge of Asgard alpine-style. Since it never really got dark, we planned to climb without stopping until we got to the summit. We set out at 1:30 A.M. on May 22 and after having quickly climbed ten pitches on the rocky spur that leads to the southern edge of Asgard, we began the very difficult climbing of cracks and slabs on the main peak. At nine P.M., we were below the final overhanging wall with its cracks and dihedrals. At five o’clock on the morning of May 23, all four of us reached the summit of Asgard after 27½ hours of consecutive climbing.

Mario Manica, Club Alpino Italiano

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