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North America, United States, Utah, Long Canyon Area

Long Canyon Area. In Short Canyon, the first side canyon on the right in Long Canyon, on the east face of Deadman’s Buttress, in May Stuart and Bret Ruckman climbed Stewing Over Art (I, 5.12—), aright-facing comer. In March, Katy Cassidy, Carol Petrelli and Earl Wiggins climbed Chopper (I. 5.10), 150 yards left of Dawn of an Error. It climbs a crack to an obvious right-facing comer. In February, Cassidy, Wiggins and Pete Gallagher climbed Program Director (I, 5.10), 500 feet left of Dawn of an Error, up a straight-in hand crack on the right wall of an open-book. In April, Stuart and Bret Ruckman ascended Gin and Techtonics (III, 5.11 + ), 1.2 miles up the canyon on the right side. This three-pitch climb starts in an overhanging comer and ends with a hand crack. The same pair in October climbed Peccadillo (I, 5.11 —), on the same wall, 200 yards west. This two-pitch route boasts a 150-foot hand crack on the second pitch. No More Tears (I, 5.11—), north and above the first switchback in the canyon, is a perfect hand crack (Bret and Judy Ruckman; May). Texas Two Step (I, 5.10) was climbed by Chris and Tim Begue. It is 50 yards left of Tequila Sunrise on Maverick Buttress and ascends a hand-and-fist crack. In January, Charlie Fowler and party ascended OK Corral (I, 5.10b), several hundred yards left of Maverick Buttress, up a left-facing comer. Doc Holliday, (I, 5.11a), was top-roped by Charlie Fowler in January. It is a variant of the above route up a thin crack. Stuart and Bret Ruckman climbed a good hand crack, Hand Delivery (I, 5.11 + ), .8 of a mile up the south side of the canyon in May.

Kyle Copeland, Downward Bound