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North America, United States, Washington?Cascade Mountains, Prusik Peak, South Face of West Ridge

Prusik Peak, South Face of West Ridge. On August 3, after being stopped the previous day, Rich Romano led through the large overhangs 50 feet to the right of our 1987 route. A pitch higher in a big alcove, we crossed left of the other route, then climbed a beautiful white dihedral by a thin finger crack, gaining the west ridge (II, 5.11 +). The following day, we climbed a diagonaling crack system up and to the right to a belay on the southwest arête and ultimately to the west ridge (II, 5.11). On August 11, David Goland and I did a route that starts further left, in a striking right-angle dihedral. After two pitches, we were forced out of the dihedral by the lack of protection. We entered a curving slot up and right, which placed us at the base of the now familiar finger crack (II, 5.10 + ). The climbs are named Double Bein, Keep on Belton, and Notley’s Direct.

Fred Yackulic