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North America, United States, Washington?Cascade Mountains, Mount Stuart, Northeast Face of False Summit, Blue Moon in June

Mount Stuart, Northeast Face of False Summit, Blue Moon in June. This route, climbed by James Ruch and me on June 5, ascended an obvious ice gully originating high on the Cliff Glacier, 100 meters below the start of the Ice Cliff Glacier Couloir. Three moderate rope-lengths of gully ice led to a steep dihedral where the gully narrows (AI-4) and to a pin belay below the second steep section. The next section was steep, thin and hollow for 30 meters. We belayed at the base of a snow slab. We trended left on rock holds to a steep runnel with a crack in the left wall. We belayed at a jammed ice block and climbed out left on vertical ice and up to a low-angle groove that led to the snowfield at the finish of the Ice Cliff Glacier Couloir. A seasonal route, it depends on conditions for its existence.

Bob Cotter