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North America, United States, Alaska, P 9875, University Range

P 9875, University Range. Bob Jacobs first saw P 9875 in 1975 during an exploratory hike up the Chitistone River. The view of this peak up Toby Creek is breathtaking. The 4500-foot north face is Eiger-like in appearance but rises to a sharp, corniced summit. On September 6,I flew to Glacier Creek and hiked up to 4500 feet along the Twaharpies Glacier. The next day Jacobs flew over to check my location before he landed and began to hike up to meet me. I moved camp to 5800 feet at the foot of the icefall which flows off the east face of the peak. I then climbed through the icefall and to 7200 feet to reconnoiter. Bob arrived at camp moments after my descent. On September 8, we climbed through the icefall to my high point and then up the glacier to 8000 feet. From there we went up 45° to 50° snow and rock to join the south ridge at 9300 feet. We worked along the narrow ridge, having to cross the ridge when the cornice changed directions. The last 350 feet were up 45° snow and ice on the summit pyramid.

Danny Kost, St. Elias Alpine Guides