American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, P 6039, P 6744, P 6855, P 6151, Chugach Mountains

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

P 6039, P 6744, P 6855, P 6151, Chugach Mountains. On June 3, Bob Jacobs, Jeanie Nelson, Will Martin and I were dropped off by wheel-skied aircraft in an unnamed glacial valley five miles southeast of the junction of the Bremner and Tana Lobe Glaciers. Because of snow conditions we did all our climbing at night with beautiful sunsets and sunrises. On July 4, we climbed P 6039 from the south, an easy warm-up from our 3500-foot Base Camp. On June 5, we moved camp to 5200 feet across the valley to the southwest. After a wind- and rainstorm, Jacobs, Martin and I on June 7 crossed the glacier south of us to the base of P 6744 and climbed this beautiful shark-toothed peak by its east ridge. On June 8, all four crossed the glacier again to climb P 6855 by its serpentine southwest ridge. On June 9, we returned to Base Camp and Nelson and Martin were flown out. Jacobs and I stayed to attempt P 6842 at the east end of the valley. We moved camp seven miles southeast to near a two-mile-long frozen lake. On June 11, we climbed to 4500 feet on P 6151’s south ridge. Heavy fog forced us to give up P 6842, but we continued along the south ridge of P 6151 to its summit and descended the west face. On June 12, we returned to our rendezvous and were flown out. I believe these were all first ascents.

Danny Kost, St. Elias Alpine Guides

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