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North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Torbert and Other Peaks, Tordrillo Mountains

Mount Torbert and Other Peaks, Tordrillo Mountains. Alaskans Tom Choate, Gary Lawton, Jerry Minick and I climbed in this range, which is visible from Anchorage. Lowell Thomas, Jr., one of the 1964 first-ascent party of Mount Torbert, flew us to the icecap feeding the Triumvirate Glacier on May 20. On May 21, we climbed the north peak of Torbert (11,100 feet) via the north ridge and then reached the main peak (11,413 feet) via the connecting ridge and plateau. We had to dig a snow cave for shelter on the descent and returned after 39 hours en route. After stormy weather, we made a ski ascent and descent of P 11,100 at the north end of our icecap on May 26. The next day, Choate and I climbed P 9644 via its southeast ridge, ten pitches of snow and ice. Excepting Torbert, we believe all our climbs were first ascents.

Ken Zafren