American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Scott Peak, Northwest Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Scott Peak, Northwest Face. On August 24, Mark Stasic and I climbed a new route on the northwest face of Scott Peak (2691 meters, 8828 feet). This route runs from 6500 to 8500 feet and tops out on the ridge between Scott Peak and its subsidiary summit to the east-northeast. It was mostly grey ice between 40° and 50°; the last two pitches were 60° and required intermediate protection with a two-foot cornice at the top of the route. We climbed from Base Camp at 5400 feet on the Toklat Glacier, 12 miles from the Toklat Road Camp on the Park Road.

Cliff Beaver, National Park Service

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