American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Western China, Koshi Toshi Attempt, Kunlun Mountains

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Koshi Toshi Attempt, Kunlun Mountains. An eight-member expedition under the leadership of Hisahiro Moro’oka attempted Koshi Toshi Mustagh (6699 meters, 21,979 feet). They had a difficult approach and got to Base Camp west of the peak at 3800 meters on August 1. Hoping to reach the north ridge, they placed Camps I and II at 4100 and 5090 meters on August 5 and 11. The next day Matsunaga, Antoku and Takazu climbed P 5740, followed on August 13 by Miss Katsuko Takahashi and Ikuto Ota. They decided against continuing this approach. Miss Takahashi and Matsunaga then set out with five days’ food on a more southerly approach from the west to reach the north ridge. After bivouacs at 4200 and 5200 meters, they got to 5970 meters on the north ridge but were stopped by a gap in the ridge.

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