American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tibet, Shisha Pangma

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Shisha Pangma. Our nine-member Hungarian team climbed Shisha Pangma by the original route. We had a difficult journey to the mountain and back: Budapest-Moscow-Tashkent-Delhi-Kathmandu-Base Camp-Lhasa-Golmud Beijing-Ulan Bator-Moscow-Budapest, half of it on the surface to manage it by the cheapest way. From Base Camp at 5000 meters, we reconnoitered on September 11 for a site for Advance Base at 5850 meters. With six yaks and two drivers, we walked the 30 kilometers to Advance Base from September 18 to 20. Camps I and II were placed at 6400 and 6950 meters. On the 25th we had to return to Advance Base because Peter Dékány had fallen seriously ill. After two days’ rest, three of us set out again and made Camp III on the very windy northeast ridge at 7400 meters. On October 1, Attila Ozsváth and I got to the top. When Zoltán Balaton, Lászlo Vörös, József Csíkos and Lászlo Várkonyi got to Camp III, they had to dig a snow cave because the tent had been blown off by the wind. On October 8, they also reached the summit. These were the 25th and 26th ascents of Shisha Pangma.

Sándor Nagy, Magyar Hegymászó Klub, Hungary

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