American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tibet, Cho Oyu from Tibet

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Cho Oyu from Tibet. Our group from five nations under my leadership placed 13 climbers on the summit of Cho Oyu via the northwest side, the same as has normally been climbed after crossing from the Nepalese side. We approached from Kathmandu by way of Kodari-Zhangmu through Tingri in Tibet. Ours was the first foreign expedition to make our entire approach from the Tibetan side. Base Camp and Camps I, II, III and IV were at 5700, 6400, 6800, 7200 and 7600 feet. Our summit climbs took place between April 29 and May 12 with temperatures as low as -35° C. We used no artificial oxygen and had no high altitude porters. The following reached the summit: Swiss Fredy Graf and Josef Wangeler on April 29 (along with two Chileans and two Sherpas who had come from the Nepalese side); Austrians Peter Wörgötter, Helmut Wagner and Oswald Gassier on May 5; German Karl Wimmer on May 6; Swiss Robert Hofer on May 7; Austrian Robert Strouhal on May 8; Austrians Wastl Wörgötter, Kurt Hecher and Hanns Pree on May 9; Netherlander Bart Vos on May 12. Vos tried unsuccessfully to climb a new route on the northwest face and reached 6700 meters before switching to the standard route.

Marcus Schmuck, Österreichischer Alpenverein

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