American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tibet, Changtse Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Changtse Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Mike Barry, Richard Fry, Sarah Gillam, Leslie Lawrence, Shay Nolan, Donal O’Murchu, Danny and Geraldine Osborne, Dermot Somers, Phil Thomas and me as leader. We had hoped to ascend the southwest ridge and descend the north ridge. In the snow conditions prevailing, the southeast ridge was unclimbable, as was the north ridge from the Main Rongbuk Glacier. (The Australians were on the East Rongbuk side.) We turned to the south ridge running up from Everest’s North Col. Two summit attempts were made from camp on the col. The first was frustrated by a heavy snowfall, leading to an epic retreat down the east side of the col to the East Rongbuk. The second party, Nugent and Thomas, were stopped by avalanche conditions at 7250 meters. Like other expeditions in the Everest region, we had difficulty getting out to the main road after the heavy snowfall of late October.

Joss Lynam, Federation of Mountaineering Clubs of Ireland

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