American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tibet, Everest Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Everest Attempt. Josema Casimiro and I shared the route on the north side of Everest with a large Swedish expedition. We followed the classic route on the East Rongbuk Glacier and on May 20 climbed to the North Col some 300 meters to the left of the usual route among seracs, where we found fixed ropes. From a bivouac at 6990 meters just below the col, we followed the north ridge to 7500 meters to a point 100 meters below the usual Camp V on May 21. From there we traversed diagonally on a strip of snow to the Great Couloir at 8100 meters. Despite theoretical protection we should have had from the sides of the couloir, the violent wind raked us for two nights and a day as we waited in vain for an improvement in the weather. On May 24, we gave up the attempt because of the wind and descended.

Mari Abrego, Orhi Mendi, Federación Vasca de Montaña, Spain

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