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Asia, Pakistan, Istor-o-Nal North I

Istor-o-Nal North I. We climbed Istor-o-Nal North I on the 1967 Lapuch’s Austrian route, which was repeated in 1976 by Naar’s Dutch expedition. We were Horst-Jürgen Stierle, Klaus-Jürgen Cramer, Norbert Kraus, Anita Burk- hardt and I as leader. We started from Islamabad for Shagrom in the Tirich valley on August 4. Base Camp was placed at Babu at 4900 meters on the 10th. Camps I, II and III were set up at 5630, 6050 and 6680 meters on August 15, 18 and 21. We varied the route between Camp I and II from the earlier climbs, climbing the northern tongue of the Nobaison Glacier to avoid objective dangers. Between Camps I and III we had to climb some dangerous icefalls and ice up to 60°. On August 25 Stierle and I climbed to the summit, (7373 meters, 24,190 feet). On the 28th, Cramer and Kraus were successful. We were back in Shagrom on September 2. For the last two years there has been a road from Reshun to Shagrom. It is no longer necessary to cross the Zani An.

Alfred Fendt, Deutscher Alpenverein