American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Yazghil Sar

Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Roy Lindsay
  • Climb Year: 1987
  • Publication Year: 1988

Between August 15 and September 26, a team of six led by me visited the remote Shimshal valley. We successfully made the first ascents of both the north and south summits of Yazghil Sar, an isolated snow-and-ice peak which lies between the Yukshin Gardan and Yazghil Glaciers, some 10 kilometers north of Yakshin Gardan Sar. Yazghil Sar should not be confused with much higher Yazghil North and South Domes, which are due east of Disteghil Sar at the head of the Yazghil Glacier. Pete and Claire Foster reached the north summit on September 7 via the northwest face and north ridge. They made the climb in three days from Base Camp at 3600 meters on a lateral moraine next to the Yazghil Glacier. It had taken four days prior to the ascent to reconnoiter the peak and stock an advanced camp. The south summit (5933 meters, 19,465 feet), which is about 100 meters higher than the north summit, was reached on September 8 by Ernie McGlashan, Jack Brindle and John O’Reilly. They used the same approach and climbed the interconnecting ridge between the summits. Again the route took three days of climbing, using the high camp on the northwest slopes at 4670 meters and a bivouac ledge hacked out of the ice on the north ridge at 5180 meters.

Roy Lindsay, Alpine Club

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.