Momhil Sar Attempt. The members of our expedition were Heiko Irmisch, Rolf Steffens, Roland Köhler and I as leader. We hoped to make the second ascent of Momhil Sar (7343 meters, 24,092 feet) by the east ridge, the route by which Austrians made the first ascent in 1964. We approached our 4600-meter Base Camp via the Trivor Glacier in five days from Nagar with 32 porters. We got to our highest point, 6600 meters, on July 8. While descending to Camp III at 6350 meters, three of us were caught in an avalanche from which luckily we could free ourselves. Since it snowed each day, avalanches were constant, the east ridge seemed to us under the present conditions unclimbable and any other route out of the question, we decided to abandon the expedition.
Günter Schulz, Deutscher Alpenverein