American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, P 5735 and P 6090, Batura Glacier Area

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

P 5735 and P 6090, Batura Glacier Area. My wife Sue and I enjoyed two weeks in the Batura Glacier area. We left Pasu on August 12 with two porters who carried to Guichisam in three days and then on to the Yoksugoz Glacier, where we pitched Base Camp at 4000 meters on the 16th. The porters left us there. After exploration of the southwest branch of the Yoksugoz, on August 20 we climbed P 5735, prominently seen from Guichisam and the culminating point of a long ridge that runs east from Kuksar. We joined the narrow attractive southeast ridge by climbing southwestwards up a flowery hillside three kilometers up the Yoksugoz. We carried big loads back down the Batura for two days but early on the 24th, just beyond Yashpirt, we made an unpremeditated decision to climb P 6090, the first prominent peak on the south side of the Batura. We crossed the glacier to Wudmul and climbed the steep vegetated hillside to bivouac at 4400 meters. This we left at 12:30 A.M. on August 25 and followed an easy ridge to reach the main east-west ridge of the Batura massif. After going over subsidiary humps, we reached a short harder mixed section below the final snow comb. Near the top of this, Sue waited while I continued to the summit. We regained our bivouac at 7:30 P.M. We were back in Pasu on the 27th.

Geoffrey Cohen, Scottish Mountaineering Club

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