American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Traverse from Dassu to Pasu and P 5979

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Traverse from Dassu to Pasu and P 5979. In July, Phil Bartlett, Duncan Tunstall and I spent four weeks walking from Dassu to Pasu, a journey of over 200 kilometers. We used porters to Base Camp at the head of the Biafo Glacier. A break in generally bad weather allowed Tunstall and me to climb a fine route to the south summit of P 5957, a granite tower on the Biafo-Solu divide, just south of the Hispar Pass. After ten days in the area, we continued toward Shimshal, taking eleven days to cross Snow Lake, the Khurdopin Pass (c. 5750 meters), the Khurdopin Glacier and Shimshal village to Pasu. I returned in August to Snow Lake with Steve Razetti, approaching via the Hispar Glacier. I climbed another route on P 5957, this time taking the northeast face to the main summit (19,617 feet), probably for the first ascent. We walked out to Skardu via the Sokha La, Sokha Glacier and Bashar valley.

Stephen Venables, Alpine Climbing Group

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