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Asia, Pakistan, Nameless Tower, Trango Towers, Second Ascent

Nameless Tower, Trango Towers, Second Ascent. A six-man Yugoslav team from Celje, Slovenia, led by Slavko Cankar, climbed the 1200- meter-high south-southeast face of the Nameless Tower on a new route to the left of the Polish-Japanese and American attempts of 1986. For six days they fixed rope on the lower 900 meters. The crux was a nearly vertical section just above the snow ledge 300 meters up the wall. They were ready to attack the summit in early June, but bad weather drove them back to Base Camp. The final push started during the night of June 15. The pitches above the previous high point were climbed in icy cold. The summit was reached by Cankar, Franc Knez and Bojan Šrot. During the descent, the weather worsened again and it snowed. The expedition then moved to Broad Peak but was unsuccessful there.

Józef Nyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland