American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Chogalisa from the Northwest, Third Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Chogalisa from the Northwest, Third Ascent. Our expedition was composed of Françoise Hénault, Pascal Poizat, Christian LaVergne, Philippe Arnaud, Christine Da Ronch and me. Our approach march was from July 18 to 27. Base Camp was at 4950 meters on the Vigne Glacier, five kilometers above the confluence of the Vigne and Baltoro Glaciers. From July 28 to August 2, we established Camp I at 5500 meters eight kilometers higher on the east branch of the glacier at the foot of a rocky triangular spur 1000 meters in height at the top of which we would place Camp II. We fixed 500 meters of rope on mixed terrain and steep snow on the spur. Camp II was occupied on August 10 at 6500 meters. On the 11th, we made the first attempt. My wife Françoise, Poizat and I reached 7300 meters in deep snow; Arnaud gave up at 6800 meters. Poizat and I remained in Camp II for another attempt two days later. The north ice face of Chogolisa averages 35° with a few places of 45°. There are few crevasses and little ice. At one P.M. on August 13, Poizat and I reached the summit (7665 meters, 25,148 feet) in dense fog. We struck Base Camp on August 15.

Jean-Etienne Hénault, Club Alpin Français

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