Thalay Sagar. Our expedition made the fifth ascent of Thalay Sagar, the second by the first-ascent route on the northwest couloir and ridge made in 1979 by the Anglo-American party led by John Thackray. The other three ascents have been by the northeast buttress. Before our ascent, there had been 14 unsuccessful attempts. We were Jaume Altadill, Oscar Cadiach, Jordi Camprubí, Xavier Pérez Gil and I as leader. Our three-day approach brought us to Base Camp at 4600 meters on August 13. We placed Advance Base and Camps I and II at 4800, 5600 and 6200 meters on August 14, 20 and 23. The glacier up to Camp I was of moderate difficulty. The 900-meter-high couloir was up to 60°. On August 25, Cadiach, Camprubí and Pérez Gil bivouacked at 6600 meters, climbed to the summit (6904 meters, 22,770 feet) on the 26th and descended to Camp II. The rock in the last 400 meters was rotten and up to UIAA difficulty of V.
Jerónimo López, Club Alpino Guadarrama, Madrid, Spain