American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India—Kumaon, Tharkot, 1986, and Laspa Dhura, 1987

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Tharkot, 1986, and Laspa Dhura, 1987. Our two Kumaon expeditions were joint ventures between the Indian Himalaya’s Beckon Club of Calcutta and British teams. In 1986 we travelled up the Sundardhunga valley and ascended Tharkot (6099 meters, 20,010 feet) by the southeastern ridge. The summit was reached on September 15, 1986 by Alison Worcester, Carl Schaschke, Keven Gheen and me and on September 16 by Rob Neath, Bivujit Mukhoty and Narayan Mitra. We established Base Camp at Sukram on September 2. Camps I, II and III were placed at 15,000, 17,000 and 19,000 feet on September 5, 7 and 14. In 1987 we followed the track to Pindari “O” built by Mr. Traill, the First Commissioner of Kumaon, in 1830. From there, we explored access to Changuch (6322 meters, 20,740 feet). We gained the upper Kafni Glacier from the col at the head of the Shal Changuch Glacier. From a camp there, Laspa Dhura (5913 meters, 19,400 feet) received its first ascent via the north ridge; descent was by the west ridge. The summit was reached on September 1 by John McKeever, Aqil Chaudary, Duncan Hornby and Jonathan Preston and on the 2nd by Bivujit Mukhoty and me.

Geoffrey M. Hornby, Comford Wheeltappers and Shunters Club, England

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