American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Tilitso Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Tilitso Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Dr. Josep Barrachina, Francesc Albera, Lluis López, Conrad López and me as leader. We left Dumre on March 10 with 40 porters. Seven days later we got to Kangsar and to Base Camp on March 28 at 4910 meters after crossing the frozen lake. Advance Base was set up two days later at 5100 meters. We started up the French route, the north spur, on Tilitso on April 7. Camp I was established the next day at 6100 meters. On the 9th Barrachina and Tashi Sherpa set out for the summit and got to within 100 meters of it, but the weather was so bad that they turned back. Strong winds destroyed Camp I and Advance Base. It was difficult to get back to Base Camp and we lost much material. We waited for a week but the weather continued bad. On April 14 we crossed the Messo Kanto Pass and descended to the Kali Gandaki valley.

Jordi Colomer, Unió Excursionista de Catalunya, Spain

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