American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Dakshin Women's Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Annapurna Dakshin Women s Attempt. Our Yugoslav women’s expedition attempted the nearly five-kilometer-long southwest ridge of Annapurna Dakshin (Annapurna South), which was first climbed in the autumn of 1978 by Japanese after their unsuccessful attempt in 1974. Our members were Vlasta Kunaver, Maja Dolenc, Ana Mažar, Sanja Vranac, Irena Komprej, Nives Boršic, Mira Uršic, Danica Mlinar and I as leader. We placed Base Camp, Advance Base, Camp I and Camp II at 4050, 4800, 5700 and 5850 meters on April 16, 20 and 24 and May 9. We reached our high point of 6100 meters on May 13 and 22 before the expedition was abandoned. Our greatest problem was the weather. Of 42 days, we had only four days without snowfall and storm. There was lightning danger and high wind. The length of the ridge was also a problem. We fixed 3500 meters of rope. We carried all our loads without Sherpa help.

Marija Frantar, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia

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