Hiunchuli, Southeast Face, Winter Ascent, 1986. Chris Watts and I departed a tea lodge at 10,800 feet on December 3, 1986 and toiled for five hours up steep grass slopes to set up camp on the moraine at 13,500 feet. True Camps I and II were placed below the rock band of the north glacier at 15,500 and 17,500 feet on the 4th and 5th. On December 6 we set up Camp III at 18,500 feet in a crevasse to avoid being hit by tottering séracs. We departed Camp III at one A.M. and reached the summit (6441 meters, 21,133 feet) at ten A.M. by traversing first under the sérac zone and then directly up it. This avoided the deep snow and trail-breaking of previous expeditions but gave steepish climbing and one very serious 90° ice pitch at 21,000 feet.
Lindsay Abbotts, Alpine Club