American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Annapurna

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Annapurna. Our expedition was composed of Francisco José Pérez, Kaji Sherpa and me. We climbed Annapurna alpine-style by the north face using the Dutch rib. We set out from Pokhara on September 16 and got to Base Camp at 4500 meters up the Miristi Khola on the 24th. We established Camps I and II at 5200 and 5800 meters on September 27 and 29, before returning for a rest at Base Camp. On October 2 we ascended to help one of the Tarragona expedition down to Base Camp; he had suffered a cerebral edema. We were back in Camps I and II on October 5 and 6. On the 7th, we ascended the buttress to bivouac at 6250 meters. At the end of the ridge, where the technical difficulties cease, we set up Bivouac IV at 6700 meters. On October 9, we ascended the long sloping plateau to bivouac at 7250 meters. We continued the next day to Bivouac VI at 7650 meters. On October 11, we three left our tent at six A.M. in cold, windy weather and reached the summit of Annapurna at one P.M. We descended to the site of Bivouac V. On the 12th, we returned to Base Camp, where our friends from the Tarragona expedition looked out for our seriously frozen toes and fingers. We shall suffer the loss of some fingers and toes. We were evacuated by helicopter to Kathmandu.

Juan Carlos Gómez, Centre Excursionista de Valencia, Spain

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.