AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, Nepal, Ganesh V

Ganesh V. The first autumn attempt on Ganesh V was successful when Koji Shibuya and Yasuhiro Matsuda and Sherpas Kusang Lama and his brother Dorje reached the top (6986 meters, 22,919 feet) on October 4 by a previously untried route, the south ridge. Our five-man expedition also included S. Ishikawa, Yasuhiro Yahara and me as leader. We established Base Camp, Advance Base, Camps I, II, III and IV at 4300, 4900, 5150, 5550, 5850 and 6300 meters on September 9, 10, 14, 20, 27 and October 1. The weather was almost always fine although it was cloudy on the day of the ascent. From Base Camp to Camp I was easy. From Camps I to IV we followed the ridge. The face above Camp IV was mixed snow and ice and 70° ice. This was the third ascent of the mountain.

Haruo Makino, Fukui Alpine Club, Japan