American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Cho Oyu

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Cho Oyu. Alejandro Izquierdo, Italo Valle, Rodrigo Mújica and I established Base Camp at 5200 meters on April 3 and Camp I at 5600 meters. In order to reach Camp II at 5850 meters on the normal (Tichy) route on Cho Oyu, we had to cross either the Nangpa La or the Senta-ghu pass; we did it both ways. Camps III and IV were at 6600 and 7200 meters. On April 28 we set up two tents at Camp V at 7600 meters. After six hours on April 29, Valle, Ang Rita, Ang Phuri and I reached the summit. Swiss Fredy Graf and Josef Wangeler arrived just five minutes after us. (See Cho Oyu from Tibet.— Editor.) This was one of the only three sunny days we had on the expedition. Izquierdo and Mújica got to Camp V in a second summit try but could not continue because of bad weather. Ang Rita has one of the best records of the Sherpas. He has now climbed to the summits of ten 8000ers: Dhaulagiri (4), Everest (3), Cho Oyu (2), Kangchenjunga (1).

Mauricio Purto, Chilean Section of the Club Alpino Italiano

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