Everest. A Korean expedition led by Hahm Tak-Young successfully climbed Everest by the South Col. Heo Young-Ho and Ang Rita Sherpa reached the summit on December 22. Heo used oxygen while sleeping at Camp IV on the South Col, where he spent three nights, and above while climbing and bivouacking, but Ang Rita used none at any time. They left Camp IV at half past midnight and arrived on the summit at 2:20 P.M., having had trouble finding the route past numerous crevasses. They began their descent at three P.M. and near the south summit made an unprepared bivouac. Heo had fallen 15 meters down the east face when a cornice collapsed under him. He was unhurt. He and Ang Rita were roped and the Sherpa held the fall. They were only slightly frostbitten. This was Ang Rita’s fourth ascent of Everest, making him the second man atop Everest four times (following Sundare Sherpa). He claims to have made all ascents without artificial oxygen. This would make him the first to make four ascents without bottled oxygen, including the only winter ascent without it.
Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley