Czechoslovakian Everest Attempt. A Czechoslovakian expedition of 23 climbers was led by Ivan Gálfy. They had hoped to make two new routes on the southwest face of Everest but early on it was decided not to attempt them because four of the strongest climbers had permission to try an alpine-style ascent of Bonington’s 1975 route, many climbers had got sick and it was important for the leader to have a successful climb because of sports politics in Czechoslovakia. While the four tried the 1975 route, the main party concentrated on the 1972 Bonington route and a few joined the Spanish-Italian team on the south pillar. None reached the summit. The four-man alpine-style team got to 7900 meters, the main party on the 1972 route reached 8250 meters and one of those who went to the south pillar traversed to the South Col but went no higher. The causes of failure were terrible winds and the lack of Sherpa support. The load-carrying Czechs got exhausted. Only one of the three Sherpas who went above Base Camp got as high as Camp II. This expedition took place in the pre-monsoon period.
Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley