American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Potomac Appalachian Trail Club

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  • Publication Year: 1988

Lhotse South Face Attempt. An International expedition to the still unclimbed south face of Lhotse was led by Krzysztof Wielicki. The climbing team had eight Poles, two South Tiroleans, one Briton and two Mexicans, some of whom joined the expedition after the successful Shisha Pangma expedition. They followed basically the 1985 Polish route and managed to get only 50 meters higher. On September 15, Dr. Czeslaw Jakiel was killed by an avalanche that fell from high above. Walenty Fiut broke his femur. They were both swept down 150 meters. Tirolean Alois B rugger jumped into a crevasse and was unhurt. Fiut was carried to Base Camp and evacuated by helicopter. Brugger also left the expedition. The other Tirolean Kurt Walde and Poles Miroslaw Dasal, Piotr Konopka, Maciej Pawlikowski, Andrzej Osika and Wielicki were joined by Mexicans Carlos Carsolio and Elsa Avila, Pole Artur Hajzer and Englishman Alan Hinkes, who had been on Shisha Pangma. The big storm of October 19 and 20 caused great difficulties. The highest point reached, 8300 meters, was gained by leader Wielicki and Artur Hajzer on October 29 and then the wind defeated them.

Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley

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