American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam South Ridge Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Ama Dablam South Ridge Attempt. After a 13-day walk-in, we arrived at Base Camp on September 17. Four members succumbed to illness. Ian Barton suffered a retinal hemorrhage, leader Martin Mandel contracted glandular fever, Mac Battersby was debilitated from giardia and Dave Green had such severe food poisoning that he had to be stretchered rapidly to the valley. On September 28, Andy Cave, Henry Todd, Bert Simmonds and I left an 18,800-foot bivouac and climbed the granite rock ridge to 19,500 feet. The following day Cave and I climbed to a third bivouac at 20,500 feet, while Todd and Simmons rested at 19,500 feet. On the 30th, Cave and I climbed to 21,000 feet but found bad snow conditions at the sérac line on the upper snowfield. We retreated in threatening weather. The other two turned back at 20,000 feet. Pete Swift and Jane Richmond climbed to 19,000 feet but descended with Todd and Simmons. Todd and I again reached 20,000 feet on October 13 with deteriorating snow conditions.

Andrew Perkins, Alpine Climbing Group

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