American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Kangchungste (Makalu II) Attempt and Tragedy

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Kangchungtse (Makalu II) Attempt and Tragedy. A ten-member French expedition led by Louis Dollo attempted Kangchungtse by the normal

south-ridge route. The big snowstorm put an end to this team’s climb as it did to many others this season. The highest point reached was 6800 meters on October 13 by the leader’s brother Pierre Dollo, François Duthil, Mlle Hélène Hardy and Mlle Aline Paneboeuf. A second summit bid to 6550 meters turned back on the 18th when the storm loomed. Two members left Base Camp on October 15 because one was ill and Jacques Saint-Martin was exhausted. They were trekking from Base Camp when the storm hit. They became separated. Two porters and Saint-Martin died of exposure and exhaustion.

Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley

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