American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentine-Chilean Patagonia, Guillaumet and Fitz Roy

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Guillaumet and Fitz Roy. At the end of September, Silvia FitzPatrick and I climbed the Aguja Guillaumet by the French couloir. For Silvia, this was her first Patagonian summit. We returned twice to Guillaumet and made a new variant on the northeast buttress of a route a friend and I had done in 1981 but we did not go to the summit. At the beginning of November, we climbed Fitz Roy by the Argentine route. This was the second ascent of the peak by a woman. The first was done in 1978 by Romy Druschke, who climbed the American route with her husband. A week later we attempted the Aguja Poincenot but were stopped by verglas two pitches from the summit. We climbed the Whillans route to the shoulder and then did a variant on the southeast spur. As on Fitz Roy, the descent was in very bad weather.

Eduardo Brenner, Centro Andino Buenos Aires

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