American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Chearoco and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real, and Sajama, 1985

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 1988

Chearoco and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real, and Sajama, 1985. After an acclimatization climb on May 25, 1985 of Colquejahui in the Hampaturi group, Bavarians Georg and Josef Seifried and Robert Wagner on May 26 placed Base Camp at 4650 meters a kilometer from the end of the Kellhuani valley. On May 27, they all climbed a 5000-meter peak north of Base Camp. On May 28, they ascended both peaks of the highest mountain north of Base Camp. They climbed the south buttress and southwest ridge of the lower western summit (c. 5420 meters) and traversed to the eastern summit (c. 5470 meters). On May 29, Georg Seifried soloed a number of peaks east of Base Camp. He ascended a valley that divides Thojo Loma from Patapatani, turned south over a foresummit to climb Thojo Loma (5174 meters) and continued southwest to another foresummit. From there he crossed the southeastern slopes of Thojo Loma to a 5050-meter col north of Patapatani. He climbed the east ridge of the peak west of the col (c. 5170 meters). He completed a long day by making the second ascent of Patapatani (5452 meters) by its north ridge. On June 1, Wagner climbed Thojo Loma and P 5170. That same day, the Seifried brothers ascended a peak (c. 5260 meters) north of Base Camp by its rather difficult southwest buttress. On June 2, the two Seifrieds made a new route, the southeast face and southeast ridge of Chearoco (6134 meters). This is probably the fourth different route on this peak. They climbed to the 5000-meter Chearoco Pass. After crossing a crevassed area, they gained the southeast ridge at 5500 meters. They then left the Cordillera Real and traveled to Sajama to camp at 5060 meters below the southwest ridge. On June 4, they all three climbed Sajama 6542 meters) by its east buttress. To reach the foot of the buttress at 4800 meters, they had a 3½ hour traverse. Nearly vertical ice at 5850 meters was the most difficult part. They feel this was a new route. They descended the south ridge. (We are also grateful to Georg Seifried for this report.)

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