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South America, Bolivia, Chacacomani and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real, 1983

Chacacomani and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real, 1983. Our attention has just been called to a German expedition led by Georg Seifried and composed of Treuhard Hanke, Jürgen Bäumler, Peter Koch, Reinhold Siegel and Udo Knittel. Most of the mountains may be found on the 1:50,000 Bolivian IGM map 5945 IV, Lago Khara Kkota. All peaks which were not first ascents are noted. The Bavarians established Base Camp at 4440 meters in the Chacacomani valley on May 23, 1983. On May 24, Seifried and Hanke traversed from northeast to southwest all the seven summits of the group which lay south of Base Camp, from Jachcha Jokho (5192 meters) over Jachcha Kkollu (5298 meters) to Jayllahuaya Kunka (5300 meters) and climbed P 5260, an outlier to the west. Knittel and Siegel fell mountain sick and had to be temporarily evacuated. On May 26, Koch and Bäumler ascended a valley to the east side of the southeast outlier of Patapatani, which they climbed. Koch continued up the south ridge to the top of Patapatani (5452 meters) and Koch climbed the west face. This climb was repeated by Hanke the next day. Also on May 27, Seifried and Koch climbed Jachcha Thojo (5358 meters) by its east ridge. While Koch descended the south ridge, Seifried continued west over Wila Wilani (5260 meters) and P 5250 before returning the same way to rejoin Koch. Together they traversed south over P 5270, P 5250 and Huarisepitaña (5314 meters). Seifried soloed Jankho Airi (5150 meters), the next peak to the east. On May 29, they established a high camp at 5100 meters southeast of Huari Umaña for climbs in the Chacacomani group. On May 30, Seifried, Koch, Bäumler and Hanke traveled northeast for four hours to the 5700-meter col between Chacacomani and Himaciña and continued up Himaciña’s north ridge to the summit (5830 meters). On May 31, all four set out on the route of the previous day, climbed to the col between Chacacomani and its western outlier and on to the summit (5750 meters) of the latter by its east ridge. From the col Koch and Bäumler climbed Chacacomani Oeste (6045 meters) by its north face, while Seifried and Hanke traversed over the west ridge of Chacacomani Oeste, down the east ridge and onto the summit of Chacacomani Este (6066 meters). They believe that these were the third ascents of both the Chacacomani summits, but by new routes. On June 1, all four set out, hoping to climb Chearoco. They found that the glacial plateau dropped off from 5600 meters almost vertically for 600 meters to Chearoco Pass and so they turned to a 5810-meter snow dome northwest of Chacacomani, which they climbed by its south slope and east ridge. They then climbed Jakocire (5540 meters) by its north ridge. That same day, Seifried soloed Huari Umaña (5264 meters) by its south-southwest ridge. Meanwhile, Knittel and Siegel had recovered and set up camp at 4750 meters in the Huarca Jahuira valley, west of Potrero. On June 1, they climbed the north peak of Potrera (5100 meters) by its northwest face. On June 2, this pair climbed P 5225 from the north and continued south to the summit (5252 meters) of the right-hand of the two peaks given on the Bolivian IGM map 5945 IV as Cerro Himaciña and to P 5340. Not finding the others, this pair returned to La Paz. On June 3 the other four moved over the Himaciña Pass to establish a new Base Camp at 5240 meters. On June 4, they climbed by its west face and south ridge “Dambil Bamba” (5510 meters), which lies southeast of the pass; local people supplied them the name. They then began their withdrawal. On June 6, they camped below the Junka Laya Pass at 4900 meters and that same day all climbed by its northeast ridge Jalli Huaykunka (5392 meters) to the west of the pass. This was a second ascent. Seifried that day also crossed the valley, climbed the 5300-meter peak north of Cerro Janko Laya and traversed north over two more summits to Potrero (5150 meters). On June 7, Koch, Bächler and Hanke crossed the Mollo Pass and returned to La Paz. Seifried climbed to camp west of the pass. On June 8, he climbed P 5250 and P 5200 west of the pass, crossed over the top of the pass and climbed the north and main (5244 meters) peaks of Wila Llojeta. The latter two had been previously climbed. On June 10, Koch, Siegel and Knittel climbed Huayna Potosí. (We are grateful to Georg Seifried for this information.)