American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Mururata and Pico Schulze, Cordillera Real

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Mururata and Pico Schulze, Cordillera Real. Yugoslavs from Slovenia climbed in the Cordillera Real from May 9 to 31. Aside from climbs on Huayna Potosí and Illimani, they made three new routes. On May 18, Filip Bertoncelj, Bojan Pockar, Bojan Pograjc and Jernej Stritih took ten hours to climb the couloir on the south face of Mururata (5868 meters, 19,253 feet). The ascent rose for 540 meters from the glacier to a point just to the left of the summit. Two pitches were of 90° and much was between 60° and 70°. They made two new routes on Pico Schulze (5830 meters, 19,128 feet). On May 26, Pograjc and Pockar climbed the southeast face, while Stritih and Matjaž Vrtovec climbed the couloir in the southwest face. The latter route was extremely difficult.

Franci Savenc, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.