American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru—Other Ranges, Cordilleras Occidental (Volcánica) and Yauyos

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Cordilleras Occidental (Volcánica) and Yauyos. Our 12-member Polish expedition first visited the Cordillera Occidental, establishing Base Camp at 4500 meters at Llullipampa, east of Ampato. On June 24 and 25, Kazimierz Glazek, Henryk Gawarecki, Kazimierz Pichlak and Jerzy Olech climbed the east summit of Ampato by the German southeast-face route. The ascent was later done by Kazimierz Sokolowski and me. From June 28 to 30, Kazimierz and Stanislaw Glazek traversed all three summits of Nevado Ampato (6288 meters, 20,631 feet), having reached the southwest summit by a 40° to 55° ice couloir. On July 1, Wojciech Gala and Wladyslaw Sarniak in eight hours completed a direct route on the southeast face of the northeast summit (6050 meters, 19,849 feet) on ice up to 70°. On June 30, during an attempt on the southeast face of Hualca Hualca (6025 meters, 19,767 feet) with Olech and Pichlak, Henryk Gawarecki was killed. He fell into a deep crevasse 150 meters from the top, carrying the party’s only rope. The other two could make no contact with him and lacking a rope, could not descend into the crevasse. Five of the expedition then moved to the Huayllacancha valley of the Cordillera Yauyos. Jerzy Zontek and I climbed Padrecacca (5362 meters, 17,592 feet) by the east ridge on August 1. At the same time, the two Glazeks attempted the southeast ice face of Cotuní or Ticlla (5897 meters, 19,347 feet) and got to 5600 meters.

Antoni Sidorowicz, Klub Wysokogórski, Wroclaw, Poland

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