American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru—Other Ranges, Colque Cruz, Cordillera Vilcanota

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Colqiie Cruz, Cordillera Vilcanota. An Italian expedition composed of Italo Bazzini, Mario Giacomelli, Livio Lanari and Roberto Manni climbed Colque Cruz, reaching the summit (6104 meters, 20,026 feet) on July 29. They had hoped to climb a direct route up the north ice face, but crevasses blocked the way and they had to deviate to the east. Their Base Camp was in the Muyoccocha valley at 4740 meters. After climbing slopes of 50° to 60°, they bivouacked at 5800 meters. From there they traversed up to the right. The last 150 meters were very steep, up to 80°. A photograph of their route appears in Lo Scarpone of December 16, 1987 on page 13.

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