American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru—Other Ranges, Yerupajá and Jirishanca West Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Yerupajá and Jirishanca West Face. After arriving at Cajatambo by bus, Toni Ponholzer, Dr. Rolf Klett, Erich Grossegger, Mario Bürgen and I took four days to reach Base Camp at Jahuacocha. We then placed a camp at 5250 meters on the Yerupajá Glacier. On August 1, we started up Rasac for acclimatization but dangerous ice conditions forced us back at 5900 meters. On the 2nd we started up the west face of Yerupajá and bivouacked at 6200 meters at four P.M. in bad weather. We got to the summit the next morning. On August 4 we helped in the rescue of a climber who had fallen from the south summit of Yerupajá. On August 7, we placed a camp at 4950 meters on the Jirishanca Glacier. On August 8 and 9, Ponholzer and Bürger climbed the west face of Jirishanca. From their tent they ascended the very broken glacier for 1½ hours to the base of the wall. The lower part had mixed climbing. The first difficulty was a long traverse under the hanging glacier on 70° blue ice. From there they climbed straight up the fall-line to the summit. The slope became steeper as they ascended and was 80° near the summit. The rock sections near the top were of UIAA III to IV difficulty. The summit ridge was heavily corniced. They descended by the ascent route.

Walter Petodnig, Österreichischer Alpenverein

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