South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Palcaraju and Santa Cruz

Publication Year: 1988.

Palcaraju and Santa Cruz. Between June 21 and July 21, fourteen Slovene climbers were active in the Cordillera Blanca. Aside from ascents on Artesonraju, Alpamayo and Huascarán, they made three new routes. On June 30, Emil Tratnik made the first traverse from Palcaraju to Palcaraju Sur, which was generally 50° to 60° with stretches of 80°. That same day Peter Poljanec and Žarko Trušnovec ascended the west ridge of Palcaraju, which was extremely difficult with very steep ice. The most important new route was on the south face of Santa Cruz, which Andrej Lužnik, Tratnik, Poljanec and Trušnovec ascended on July 7 and 8 in 18 hours of climbing. (See below.) This was Trušnovec’s twelfth new route in the Cordilleras of Peru.

Franci Savenc, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia