American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Ketil Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1988

Ketil Attempt. During four weeks in July and August, three Danes, Sören Smid, Uffe Mortensen and I, and Swede Magnus Nilsson climbed in the granite section of Tasermiut Fjord. Our main objective was the smooth west face of Ketil Fjeld. We gave up a new route after 250 meters on the right of the face beside the 1984 Piola route because of dangerous loose flakes. We turned to a repetition of the 1984 Catalan route. Six ropes were fixed and two nights spent in portaledges before a major föhn storm struck. After a sitting bivouac 400 meters below the top, the weather forced a retreat first to the wrecked portaledge camp and then all the way down. The weather was never settled during our stay, in strong contrast to that of spring and early summer, which gave South Greenland the warmest, sunniest weather in decades.

Michael Hjorth, Dansk Bjergklub

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